Carbonara

Bring two to three inches of heavily salted water to a boil in a wide shallow 12 inch pan.

Start the guanciale in a cold pan and cook it slowly so the fat renders out evenly.

Ideally start the pasta as the guanciale finishes; otherwise reserve one and a half cups of pasta water, strain the pasta, toss it with a little oil, cover and keep warm.

In the blender combine three egg yolks and four ounces of finely grated Parmesan, and stream in a cup of the hot pasta water while it runs.

Turn off the blender, finish cooking the guanciale, then stream about a quarter cup of its fat into the running blender.

Blend the dropped chunks of guanciale into the sauce too; a powerful blender emulsifies them seamlessly and makes it thicker and creamier.

Leave a quarter cup of fat in the pan, add the cooked pasta and the remaining reserved cup of pasta water, and cook about one minute over low heat.

Kill the heat and keep the pasta moving while slowly streaming in the blender emulsion; it thickens on the residual heat of the pan and further as it cools.