Carnitas

Cut the pork shoulder into large chunks of about two inches, trimming apart at the natural muscle separations. Pick a size and stick to it so they cook uniformly.

Cut all the fat into small pieces and keep it with the meat.

In a bowl season the pork with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper, cinnamon, ground cumin and Chinese five spice.

Add a couple of bay leaves broken in half and a handful of peeled whole garlic cloves.

Peel big pieces of orange peel with a potato peeler, avoiding the white part, add them, then halve the orange and squeeze in the juice.

Add regular olive oil and mix thoroughly.

Transfer to a heavy duty 9 by 12 or 13 baking dish or roasting pan and spread everything evenly, so the bay and garlic are not all in one spot.

Set the dish on a sheet pan and wrap it very tightly in heavy duty foil.

Roast in the middle of a 275F oven about three and a half hours, until a fork slides into the meat with zero effort. The exact time depends on the chunk size.

Tip the meat into a colander set over a bowl, discard the garlic, orange peel and bay, and pour the braising liquid through as well. Keep the juices and fat.

Return the drained pork to the pan and drizzle a little of the reserved fat over, trying to get some on every piece.

Broil on high, about five or six inches under the heat, until crisp. After four or five minutes pull it out, drizzle a little more fat over and put it back for a few minutes more.

Drizzle some of the braising liquid over, reduced first if wanted.

Build a taco: a warm corn tortilla, a few chunks of pork smashed apart a little, a little salsa, a touch of diced white onion, chopped cilantro and fresh lime. Restraint is key.