Challah (three-strand and four-strand round)

Warm the water to 100F for a cool room and add it to the honey and oil, then the salt and yeast.

Add two room-temperature whole eggs and one yolk, weighing straight into the mixer bowl on a scale.

Mix slowly about a minute, then on medium-low (3 or 4 on the KitchenAid) about six to seven minutes, until well developed and it windowpanes easily.

Gather the dough into a lightly oiled bowl and let it rise in a warm, draft-free place, such as a proof box or a microwave warmed with a jar of steaming water.

Weigh the dough and divide by three for a three-strand loaf or by four for a four-strand loaf.

Pre-shape each piece into a tube; cover with an upturned pan so they do not skin, and rest 15 to 20 minutes.

Roll each tube evenly to about 20 inches, pressing out any gas bubbles.

Three-strand: braid from the middle outward, draping the strands without tension; flip and braid the other half; set at an angle on the tray.

Proof in a switched-off oven with warm water in a tray below for warmth and humidity, about an hour and a half, until well risen but still with some strength.

Four-strand round: lay two strands over two, then weave 'under goes over' around and back, tucking the ends underneath.

Brush every bit of exposed dough with the egg white, down to where the loaf meets the parchment; sprinkle heavily with everything bagel topping.

Bake.