Charcoal-grilled whole stuffed branzino with a chili, herb and lemon zest topping

Wipe the fish dry so the skin crisps; cut off the fins, leaving the tail.

Season the cavities with the salt, pepper and garlic powder blend and a little olive oil.

Zest the lemon before cutting it, saving the zest; cut the lemon and lay halves of slices inside each fish.

Stuff with cilantro and green onion halved down the middle, reserving the dark green tops.

Cut diagonal slashes down to the bone on both sides so the seasoning gets in, and season both sides with kosher salt.

Mix Japanese mayo with the optional soy paste and a squeeze of garlic paste and brush it over the fish, into the slashes, to stop sticking.

Dump the white-hot coals from the chimney, set the rack, close the lid and heat about three minutes.

Grill the fish about five minutes with the lid on; if it sticks, keep cooking until it releases, then lift gently (a carving fork helps) and turn.

Grill the second side about three and a half minutes.

Rest five minutes, loosely covered.

For the topping, mix sliced green onion tops, roughly cut cilantro, sliced long red chilies with seeds, a little red onion, the saved lemon zest, a good pinch of the seasoning and olive oil.

Pull out the stuffing, plate the fish, spoon over the topping and finish with a drizzle of lemon juice.