Cheese agnolotti

Make a well in the flour and add the whole eggs. Break the yolks with a fork and scramble, drawing in flour little by little through a thin then thick batter.

When the fork becomes too much work, switch to a bench scraper and cut the dry flour into the wet until a shaggy dough forms, about a minute; then gather by hand and press into a rough ball.

Scrape the board clean, pushing wet pieces back into the dough and discarding dry crumbly bits.

Knead about three minutes to a relatively smooth, fairly elastic ball.

Set on a lightly floured board, cover with plastic wrap and rest 10 to 15 minutes.

Knead a second time about four minutes, poking air into the dough with the fingers every 30 to 40 seconds.

Wrap tightly in plastic, smooth side down, and refrigerate a few hours or as long as overnight.

Filling: mix Parmesan and ricotta with one egg yolk, finely chopped Italian parsley, salt, black pepper and a few shakes of cayenne until evenly combined; refrigerate.

Cut the dough into quarters on a lightly floured surface, keeping the others covered. Press one into a rectangle and roll very thin, until the board's grain shows through.

Trim the ends and sides square and cut into two strips across the middle.

Pipe a rope of filling from a zip top bag along each strip, about two inches from the edge.

Mist the dough lightly with water, then fold it over the filling slowly without trapping air, and press the seam firmly to a single thickness.

With a little flour under the dough, pinch firmly with two fingers every inch or so from the end, re-pinching each previous pinch; make the last pinch where the filling ends.

Trim the front edge with a fluted pasta cutter about an eighth of an inch from the filling. Bend the pinched dough forward and cut between each pinch to separate and crimp.

Transfer to lightly floured parchment; refrigerate until boiling, or freeze on the pan then bag.

Boil in generously salted water for three minutes, though they float after about a minute, until cooked but still a little toothsome.

Transfer into heated marinara, turn flat side down, plate on a warm plate and finish with grated Parmesan and a pinch of chopped parsley.