Cheese puffs (choux pastry with cheese)

In a saucepan combine the water, butter, a pinch of nutmeg, the pepper and the salt; bring to a boil.

Turn off the heat, add the flour and beat until fully incorporated.

Return to medium-high heat and keep beating one to two minutes until the mixture leaves the sides of the pan and forms a mass; take off the heat.

Make a well in the middle and beat in the eggs one at a time, working fast so they do not scramble.

Add the cheese to the hot mixture and season with salt and pepper.

Preheat the oven to 425F.

Fill a piping bag, snip the tip, and pipe puffs an inch and a half in diameter and about half an inch high onto a baking sheet with a circular motion.

Beat an egg with half a teaspoon of water; brush each puff with the egg wash and flatten it very slightly with the side of the brush. Wipe off any egg that drips onto the sheet, or it stops the puff rising.

Bake on the top and lower racks for 20 minutes, swapping the pans at 10 minutes, until golden brown, firm and crusty to the touch.

Poke each puff in the side with a sharp knife, return to the turned-off oven with the door ajar for 10 minutes, then cool on a rack.