Cheese ravioli

Weigh the flour and dump it on a clean countertop; make a well with a measuring cup.

Add the olive oil and sprinkle the salt over.

Crack the eggs into the well and mix with a fork, drawing in more and more flour until it is a thick slurry.

Fold in the remaining flour with clean hands or a bench scraper - scoot underneath and fold down - until shaggy.

Knead, pressing forward with the palm and folding, flouring hands as needed, about 10 to 15 minutes, until smooth and the dough springs back when pressed.

Wrap tightly in plastic and rest at least one hour on the counter, up to three, or in the fridge up to a day, so the gluten relaxes.

Freshly grate the parm; finely dice the fresh mozzarella.

Mix the parm, mozzarella and ricotta with freshly grated nutmeg, the salt and the black pepper; herbs are optional.

Transfer the filling to a piping bag or a plastic bag and refrigerate covered.

Line a baking sheet with parchment and dust it lightly with semolina.

Divide the dough into four equal pieces, keeping the rest loosely wrapped.

On the pasta roller's lowest setting, pass the dough through once, fold in half and pass again, fold and pass again, then twice more without folding.

Dust with semolina and pass twice on each setting from 2 up to 8, the thinnest, piercing any air bubble with a knife.

Dust lightly with semolina, fold, set on the baking sheet and cover with a tea towel; repeat with each piece.

Lay two sheets side by side and trim them even.

Brush the excess semolina away and pipe one-and-a-half-teaspoon dollops of filling about one and a half inches apart on one sheet.

Brush the other sheet with water, working in pairs so the pasta does not dry out, and flip it water side down over the filling.

Stretch gently so the edges meet, press the filling down a little, and press around each mound to push out the air; vent a bubble with a small hole and press it closed after.

Cut around the edges and between the ravioli with a pastry cutter, knife or pie crimper, which cuts and seals.

Move the ravioli to the semolina-dusted sheet, sprinkle the tops with semolina, and let them dry at least 15 minutes.

Variation: to freeze, dry on the counter 30 to 45 minutes, freeze solid on the sheet, bag, and boil from frozen.

Salt a big pot of boiling water, add the ravioli and boil 3 to 4 minutes over medium heat once it returns to a boil, stirring occasionally.

Lift them with a spider or slotted spoon straight into the warm sauce, and serve immediately.