Chef Drew Deckman, Deckman’s, Valle de Guadalupe

The kitchen is entirely wood-fired, piecemeal, and built round what the ranch produces.

Season most fish with salt and fennel seed.

Hot smoke the sardines with thyme from the garden and lemons sliced very thin, and grill them.

Serve the grilled and hot-smoked sardines on a fresh cabbage salad with a lemon vinaigrette.

Cut the small tomatoes, take the seeds out and semi-dehydrate them in the smokers; their sweetness plays against the sour of the vinegar.

For the quick pickle, use three parts vinegar, two parts water and one part sugar, plus oil and any aromatics you want, and pickle the radish in it.

For the chorizo powder, roast the chorizo, put it in the blender, roast it again to get the fat out, then blend it again so it comes out like a chorizo salt dust.

Toast the pumpkin seeds, chop them and add them to the chorizo powder for the pepian vinaigrette.

Make a puree from the asparagus trim and waste.

Make a broth from all the striped bass bones and melt butter into it.

Everything that goes on the grill gets only a little oil, salt and pepper; the condiments served with the dish do the rest.