Chewy 2.0 brown butter chocolate chip cookies

Cut the two sticks of butter into pats so it melts evenly, and melt at a relatively low temperature.

Allow seven to ten minutes to brown this amount of butter, and let it cool before making the cookies.

Once all the solid parts have melted, turn the heat up a bit to medium and boil out the water under the fat; keep it bubbling but not popping.

When the bubbles slow, hang around longer and stack up into foam, the water is mostly gone and the temperature is rising.

Lower the heat a hair and stir with a silicone brush to lift the browning bits off the bottom and keep them suspended so they fry rather than sit on the pan.

The target is right around 275 degrees Fahrenheit, but by the time you temp it it can be burned, so go by smell: when you start to smell nuts, take it off the heat and pour it into a Pyrex or other heatproof bowl.

Do not strain out the browned milk solids for this recipe; they go in the cookies.

Put the light brown sugar and granulated sugar in the bowl, then the brown butter, with the paddle on low speed just until they come together. This is not creaming.

Mix the bread flour with the baking soda, the salt and the milk powder and stand it by.

Stir the vanilla and the 45 grams of water into the egg and egg yolk.

Turn the speed up a little and add the egg mixture slowly.

Add the dry ingredients in three doses off the paper plate; fog in the room means it is going in too fast.

Drop to stir and add the chips.

Portion at about 60 grams onto a sheet pan, spacing irrelevant, and refrigerate overnight, at least 10 to 12 hours, for full hydration, passive gluten formation and a more plastic dough.

Space six to a tray on parchment sheets and bake straight from the fridge, cold, to limit spread.

Optional: flick a little Maldon finishing salt onto the middle of each, a small mound that will spread out.

Bake at 375 degrees, two pans and 12 cookies at a time, five minutes then flip the pans top to bottom. These take longer than the Toll House cookies.