Chicken do pyaza

Blend ginger, garlic and 1/4 cup water to a smooth paste. Blend one large tomato to a smooth puree.

Marinate the bone-in skinless chicken thighs with 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp salt, two heaped teaspoons yogurt, some of the ginger garlic paste, 1 tsp oil and freshly crushed black pepper, about half an hour.

Slice three of the four onions; quarter the fourth and separate it into petals for the end.

Whisk the room-temperature yogurt with 1/4 cup water, 1/2 tsp turmeric, a heaped teaspoon Kashmiri chilli powder, two heaped teaspoons ground coriander and 1 tsp ground cumin until very smooth, so it does not curdle.

Heat 4 tbsp oil in a pot on medium heat, not smoking hot. Add bay leaf, 3 green cardamoms, 2 cloves and an inch of cinnamon stick, then 1 tsp cumin seeds and let them splutter.

Fry the sliced onions with 1/4 tsp salt on medium heat without letting them get too brown.

Add the ginger garlic paste and fry 1 minute; add the marinated chicken and fry on high heat 4 to 5 minutes.

Add the pureed tomato and fry another 4 to 5 minutes on high heat.

Take off the heat and add the yogurt spice mix; return to low heat and stir continuously until it boils, or the yogurt separates into specks of milk solids.

Salt to taste. Cover on low heat and simmer 25 to 30 minutes until the chicken is tender, stirring from time to time; add a little hot water, never cold, if it gets too dry.

Discard the bay leaf and floating whole spices. Add 1 tsp garam masala and 1 tsp crushed kasuri methi at the end so their flavor is retained.

Add the onion petals and a chopped green bell pepper (optional).

Taste; add another teaspoon of chilli powder if more heat is wanted, 1 tbsp cooking cream (optional) and a green chilli. Simmer about 5 minutes.

Finish with a generous shower of coriander leaves and 1 tsp ghee. If the gravy tastes sour, a little sweetness such as a teaspoon of sugar, honey or maple syrup. Serve with rice, roti or naan.