Chicken karahi

Cut boneless skinless chicken thighs into fairly large pieces.

Mix with finely grated ginger and garlic, plain yogurt and a little red chilli powder; marinate at least 30 minutes.

Roast cumin seeds, coriander seeds and black peppercorns in a pan over medium-low heat, stirring, until fragrant and a shade darker but not too dark, which makes them bitter.

Grind coarsely in a mortar and pestle or spice grinder.

Combine the ground spices: turmeric, Kashmiri red chilli powder, ground cumin, ground coriander and garam masala; no water.

Heat a heavy-bottomed wide pan over medium-high with no oil; add the chicken with all its marinade and spread it out on high heat until the released water evaporates and only fat remains.

Add about 1.5 tbsp oil, the halved tomatoes and a splash of water; cover on high heat 5 minutes until the tomato skins wrinkle.

Pull off the tomato skins with tongs and mash the tomatoes with a spoon; cover again 5 minutes on high.

Add salt, another tablespoon of oil, chopped ginger, the crushed toasted spices, the ground spice mix, crushed kasuri methi and sugar; stir on medium-high to high heat.

Add about half a cup of water, cover 5 minutes, then reduce to medium-low.

Stir in coriander stems and, optionally, a little sour cream (or yogurt or cooking cream), then coriander leaves.

Taste and adjust the salt; serve with naan, paratha or rice, garnished with julienned ginger if wanted.