Chicken katsu

Split the chicken breasts and pound into quarter-inch cutlets, or have the butcher do it.

Season generously with salt and pepper; for best results rest in the fridge a few hours.

Set up three shallow plates: a cup of flour, three beaten eggs, and a cup and a half of panko.

One cutlet at a time, dredge in flour with the dry hand, coat in egg with the wet hand, let the excess drip off, then cover with panko using the dry hand, pressing and flipping to build a thick coat. Set aside and repeat.

Heat about a third of an inch of vegetable, canola or peanut oil in a cast iron or stainless steel skillet to around 350F, checked with a thermometer.

Lay the cutlets in away from you, in a single layer. Fry, swirling the pan and adjusting the heat to hold 300 to 325 at a steady, vigorous bubble.

Cook until the first side is set, about a minute and a half; flip and cook the second side about a minute and a half longer.

Keep cooking, flipping occasionally and swirling, until golden brown and crisp on both sides.

Drain on a paper towel-lined plate and season immediately with a little more salt; keep warm in the oven while frying the rest.

Cut into thin strips with a sharp knife and serve with finely shredded cabbage, a lemon wedge and tonkatsu sauce.