Chicken paprikash

Season the chicken thighs generously with kosher salt.

Brown skin side down over high heat in a little oil about 5 minutes, then a few minutes on the other side, rendering fat from under the skin.

Remove the chicken to a plate, turn off the heat and spoon off a few tablespoons of fat if there is a lot.

Add diced onions and a big pinch of salt; cook over medium, stirring occasionally, until soft, sweet and starting to turn golden.

Add minced garlic, a couple tablespoons of tomato paste and some flour; stir and cook 3 to 4 minutes to make a tomato roux and toast the paste onto the pan.

Add salt, black pepper, a little smoked paprika and a lot of sweet paprika; stir and cook about a minute.

Add chicken broth, raise the heat to high and bring to a simmer, stirring up the fond; it thickens as it simmers.

Return the chicken and its juices, toss in the sauce, reduce to medium-low, cover and cook 45 minutes to an hour, basting, until fork tender.

Remove the chicken to a plate.

Optionally skim off about 75% of the fat; whisk in heavy cream and full-fat sour cream.

Bring back to a simmer, return the chicken and juices and simmer until heated through, basting; taste for seasoning.

Off the heat, dollop with sour cream and garnish with chopped chives, parsley or dill.