Chicken pastitsada (spiced chicken and tomato stew over bucatini)

Season the skinned chicken quarters on both sides with a little salt and pepper.

Heat olive oil in a pot over medium-high and brown the chicken in batches without overcrowding, about 4 minutes per side; transfer to a platter to rest.

Cook two chopped onions in the oil with a pinch of salt over medium until soft and golden, about 6 minutes.

Add the garlic and warm through a couple of seconds, stirring to release the brown bits and deglaze the pot.

Return the chicken; add 5 allspice berries, 3 cloves, 2 bay leaves, black pepper, about 28 oz pureed tomatoes, 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp ground cumin, a heaping tsp sweet paprika and optional red pepper flakes. A cinnamon stick or half a teaspoon of ground cinnamon is traditional and was left out.

Mix, cover and cook on medium-low 45 minutes to an hour until the chicken is soft and the sauce thick, stirring every few minutes; add no water.

Boil the pastitsio noodles until al dente; toss with butter and a pinch of salt.

Taste and adjust the seasoning; finish with 1 tbsp dried oregano and 2 to 3 tbsp chopped parsley.

Plate the pasta, top with grated Parmesan, then the chicken and plenty of sauce.