Chicken piccata

Cut each chicken breast horizontally down the middle into two thinner pieces, sawing back and forth with the hand held flat on top; or cut it top to bottom if the knife work is not comfortable.

Slide each piece into a freezer bag and pound the thicker side gently with a pot, about ten pounds, to a uniform quarter inch.

Salt both sides with a two-finger pinch per side and hit them generously with black pepper.

Dry brine about 10 minutes; the salt seasons through and changes the protein structure so the meat holds more water.

Dredge each cutlet in all-purpose flour, tapping and flipping so every part is coated, then shake off the excess.

Let the dredged cutlets sit about five minutes so the flour hydrates, unifies with the protein and browns more evenly.

Heat a 12-inch stainless steel saute pan over medium plus heat, about seven out of ten, for two to three minutes.

Add about three tablespoons of oil and wait for a shimmer and tiny wisps of smoke.

Toss each cutlet back through the dredge, shake off the excess aggressively so nothing loose burns in the pan, and lay them in; they should sizzle at once.

Press each breast down with a rubber spatula for 10 to 15 seconds so as much surface as possible touches the pan, and rotate the pan for even heat.

Sear about three to three and a half minutes on the first side, until golden brown and about 70 percent cooked, topping up the oil if it stops sizzling at the edges.

Flip them all, turn down to medium low and cook two to three more minutes to an internal temperature of 150 to 155 F, five and a half to six minutes in total.

Move the chicken to a plate to rest a couple of minutes.

Wipe the pan out with paper towel; the dark flour left behind is not a usable fond.

Over medium low heat add a tablespoon or two of oil and the drained capers and stir about 60 seconds to bloom them, until they pop open, smell toasty and start to crisp and brown.

Add the minced garlic and a touch more oil and cook 90 seconds to two minutes until fragrant and translucent; splash in a little water to deglaze if the pan starts to grip.

Whisk in 3 g of all-purpose flour to make a small roux, which binds the butter emulsion and adds viscosity.

Turn the heat up, add 200 g of dry white wine and stir, lifting any garlic or flour stuck to the bottom.

Reduce about two minutes until the alcohol is cooked off and it leaves a long lazy trail, then another 30 seconds until the small bubbles turn large, au sec.

Add 100 g of chicken stock, scrape up the browning from the sides and reduce 60 to 90 seconds until half the volume is gone.

Turn the heat to its lowest setting or off, add about 10 g of lemon juice and 75 g of cold cubed butter and whisk to emulsify.

Kill the heat and check the viscosity, thinning with a little chicken stock or water if it is too thick, then taste and add a small pinch of salt.

Stir in 5 g of very finely minced parsley and the zest of half a lemon, which gives lemon aroma without the acidity of more juice.

Warm the sauce through and spoon a liberal amount over each cutlet, served family style.

Grate a little more lemon zest over each cutlet with a microplane, staying off the bitter pith.

Serve with angel hair tossed in olive oil, rustic chunky smashed potatoes, or crusty bread.