Chicken piccata made with pounded thighs

Season the thighs liberally with salt and pepper on both sides; put two tablespoons of flour in the zip bag.

Add one thigh, shake to coat, seal out the air, spritz lightly with water and pound with strike-and-slide blows in one direction, rotating; about 10 whacks, flip and repeat until twice as wide.

Move to the rack and repeat with each thigh, adding a tablespoon of flour each time; can be done a couple of hours ahead.

Slice the mushrooms, chop the parsley, slice a lemon thinly, cube the butter, toss in flour and chill; combine stock, wine and lemon juice.

Heat the wide pan over medium-high about two minutes.

Add half the oil and brown the thighs two at a time about two minutes per side, pressing down, adding a little oil each batch; remove.

Add the last tablespoon of oil and cook the mushrooms until deeply brown, up to five minutes; add the capers about 30 seconds until they pop.

Deglaze with a third of the combined liquid, shingle the chicken in, add the rest of the liquid and top with lemon slices.

Cover, reduce to medium-low and braise seven to eight minutes at a bare bubble.

Remove the chicken to a platter; fish out the mushrooms and capers; reduce the liquid about a minute over medium.

At the lowest heat whisk in the chilled butter a few pieces at a time to an emulsion; finish with pepper, return the mushrooms and capers, pour over the chicken and sprinkle with parsley.