Chicken teriyaki with crispy skin

Debone the thighs with a paring knife: two slices close along each side of the bone, then along the top and bottom keeping the blade on the bone, then run the knife under it to cut it out. Nip out the cartilage under the bigger end. Leave all the extra skin; it shrinks.

Score the flesh side about half an inch deep every one to one and a half inches, about five cuts each way diagonally, so it cooks flatter and more evenly.

Salt the flesh side only; salt on the skin draws out moisture and stops it crisping.

Heat a nonstick pan on medium-low, about four out of ten.

Turn the thighs skin side up and dab dry with a paper towel.

Add a little oil and lay the thighs in skin side down; press them flat with a heavy saucepan, rotating the pan every 90 seconds to two minutes.

After five to six minutes remove the press and keep cooking at four out of ten another four to five minutes, 10 to 12 minutes in all, until deeply browned.

Flip and cook the flesh side two minutes on low, about two out of ten, to at least 170, closer to 180 or higher.

Rest the chicken five minutes on a wire rack.

Wipe out excess chicken fat with paper towels, leaving the browned bits; add the soy sauce, sake, mirin and sugar.

Bring to a simmer, then reduce over high heat about five minutes until pretty thick, like glossy brown paint, not glue.

Brush the sauce onto the chicken.

Turn skin side down and chop five to seven times; cutting skin side up tears the skin.

Serve on steamed medium grain rice with a little sesame seed.