Chicken tortilla soup

Put a whole chicken in a big pot with a halved unpeeled onion, cilantro stems, two or three bay leaves, dried Mexican oregano and whole black peppercorns; fill with cold water and bring to a boil over high heat.

Add a couple of seeded dried ancho chilies (or a spoon of chili powder); once boiling reduce to medium-low and simmer one hour.

Halve a stack of corn tortillas and cut across into strips about a quarter inch wide; toss on a Silpat-lined baking sheet with a generous amount of vegetable oil and a big pinch of salt and spread out evenly.

Bake in the centre of a 350 degree oven about 30 minutes, tossing once or twice, until golden brown and crispy; they crisp further as they cool.

Reduce the heat to low and carefully lift the chicken into a bowl with tongs (or tongs and a strainer), pouring any juice back into the pot; cool until it can be handled.

Pull off the breast meat and the big easy chunks from the thighs and legs; keep the meat in the fridge.

Return the skin, bones and scraps to the pot and simmer gently at least four hours for a rich broth.

About two hours in, arrange three or four tomatoes, a couple of peeled halved onions, a halved seeded sweet red pepper and a big jalapeno on a lightly oiled foil-lined sheet pan; broil on high 7 to 10 minutes until charred.

Without peeling, put the charred vegetables in a blender with whole peeled garlic cloves, a chipotle in adobo and a little water; blend on high until smooth.

Stir the puree into the simmering broth, return to a simmer, then cook on medium-low another couple of hours as it reduces and darkens; salt to taste, carefully, since reduction concentrates it.

Pass everything through a fine mesh strainer into another pot, pressing the solids with a spoon or spatula; then set the strainer over the empty pot and let it drip about 15 minutes, adding what collects.

To finish (it can be the next day), bring to a simmer over medium-high heat; add salt if needed, ground cumin, the chicken shredded into bite-sized pieces, and the juice of one lime.

Stir, reduce to low and simmer gently 15 to 30 minutes; taste for salt and heat.

Put a handful of tortilla strips in each bowl, add chicken, ladle in broth, and garnish with sour cream or crema, avocado, chopped cilantro, crumbled cotija, more tortilla strips and a shake of cayenne; serve with lime.