Chicken wings

Break down whole wings: run a sharp knife down to and around the joint, crack it open and cut between the bones to remove the wingtip.

Do the same between the drumette and the flat, cutting the sinew and tendons around the joint for a clean break.

Save the wingtips for stock; they are mostly skin and cartilage.

Pat the wings thoroughly dry with paper towels.

Salt lightly, spread on a rack set over a rimmed baking sheet and leave uncovered in the fridge two to 24 hours.

Deep fry in at least two quarts of vegetable or canola oil at 375F for five to eight minutes until golden brown and crisp, keeping the pieces moving.

Drain on paper towels before saucing.

Oven method: whisk equal parts kosher salt and baking powder, three quarters of a teaspoon each for two pounds of wings; toss half over the wings, then sprinkle on the rest.

Rest on a rack over a rimmed baking sheet in the fridge two to 24 hours.

Line the rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil, set the rack and wings over it and bake at 250F for 20 minutes.

Take the wings out, raise the oven to 475F, preferably with convection, and let it preheat about 15 minutes.

Return the wings for 20 to 30 minutes, flipping everything after 10.

Variation: lightly oil the rack and lay down a generous substrate of baking soda to absorb the dripping fat and cut the smoke; reposition the wings when flipping so fat does not drip on the same spot.

Grill variation: set up indirect heat with the burners on one side on full blast and the other side turned all the way down; preheat 10 minutes.

Hit the grates with a wire brush, wipe them with vegetable oil, pile the wings on the cool side, cover and cook 10 to 15 minutes until char marks start to show.

Flip and reshuffle, swapping paler wings for the browner ones, and start applying barbecue sauce.

Cook over low heat about 20 minutes, flipping occasionally and coating with sauce until lightly browned and cooked through.

Raise to medium high for five to 10 minutes until the wings and sauce develop a deep char.

Place the wings in a big bowl, drizzle generously with sauce and toss to coat evenly.