Chipotle peanut salsa

Heat a pan over medium heat and toast the dried chiles until aromatic; they puff a little.

Move them to a small dish, turn off the heat, and cover with very hot tap water to rehydrate.

Husk the tomatillos, cut them across the equator and lay them cut side down on a quarter sheet pan.

Add four garlic cloves and some rounds of onion to the pan.

Broil on the highest rack about eight minutes total, checking halfway and turning the garlic and onion; the tomatillos stay put.

Roast until the tomatillos are blotchy and black in places; let cool.

Blend half the tomatillos, all the garlic, the rehydrated chiles and the peanuts until completely smooth, adding a little water if the blender stalls.

Add the remaining tomatillos, the roasted onion cut into rough pieces, about a tablespoon of Worcestershire sauce and a little salt.

Keeps in the refrigerator for several days.

Pulse to a slightly chunky texture, then pulse in water to thin it.

Taste; add more salt and a pinch of sugar, and pulse in.