Chocolate eclairs and swan cream puffs from pate a choux

Trace 1.5-inch circles for the puffs and 3-inch lines for the eclairs on parchment, flip it ink-side down, and anchor its corners to the sheet with dabs of choux.

With about a half-inch opening, hold the bag at 45 degrees at the edge of a circle and apply steady pressure without moving the bag until the circle fills into a mound; flick to release.

Snip a larger opening and pipe each eclair as one uninterrupted log, flicking at the end.

Egg wash with a gentle dabbing motion so the shapes are not flattened.

Bake starting at 425F to initiate the puff, then turn down to 375F and bake through to dry the middle, rotating after about 20 minutes, 30 to 35 minutes total.

Drag fork tines lengthwise along each eclair to lightly score the surface so it puffs evenly.

For the glaze, combine the heavy cream, sugar, butter, kosher salt and corn syrup in a saucepan; heat until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves, just to a bare simmer, then off the heat to cool about 30 seconds.

Add the chocolate without stirring and let it melt gently for three or four minutes, then whisk from the centre outward in tight circles, without working in air, until smooth and glossy; keep warm.

Whip the cold cream; at soft peaks add the sugar and whip to medium-stiff peaks; refrigerate.

Poke a small hole in the bottom of each puff and two in each eclair with a paring knife to release steam; cool upside down.

Pipe two- to three-inch question-mark shapes for swan necks, no egg wash, and bake under 10 minutes until golden and crisp.

Fill the eclairs with pastry cream through the holes, judging by weight, then dip the tops in the glaze and let set.

Slice the tops off the cream puffs with a serrated knife and halve the tops for wings; fill with a dollop of whipped cream, tuck in a neck and the wings, and set on a pool of chocolate sauce made by thinning the glaze.