Churrasco chicken

In a mortar, put sliced garlic, one seeded and sliced Fresno chili and a big spoon of coarse sea salt; pound with the pestle to a coarse paste.

Add lemon zest, dried oregano, two teaspoons paprika and a little ground cumin; pound and mash about a minute.

Add lemon juice, red wine vinegar and olive oil; stir and grind about half a minute until emulsified.

Make a very shallow cut through the skin of each skin-on, bone-in chicken thigh.

Flip, cut along the bone on top and both sides, slide a finger then the knife under it and cut toward both ends to remove the bone; trim off remaining cartilage and connective tissue (optional).

Put eight thighs in a zip top bag; add about a teaspoon of kosher salt per pound of meat and the marinade, and mix thoroughly with tongs into every crevice.

Squeeze out the air, seal and refrigerate overnight (a couple of hours minimum); about 14 hours here.

Without draining or wiping, place skin side down over a very hot, mature charcoal fire for 2 minutes.

Flip and grill the meat side about 5 minutes.

Flip back to the skin side for 1 to 2 minutes to a golden brown finish with a few char marks and cooked through; flip back and forth as needed and pull smaller pieces early.

Transfer to a serving platter and drizzle over the accumulated juices; serve over chimichurri potato salad with fresh lemon squeezed over.