Cinnamon rolls with cream cheese icing

Melt 115 g butter gently in a saucepan and kill the heat so it does not get too hot.

Stir in 225 g plain Greek yogurt and 115 g milk, keeping the temperature between 85 and 90F so the gluten can still develop.

Pour the mixture into a bowl with 7 g instant yeast and stir so the yeast is fully hydrated.

Add 450 g all-purpose flour, 100 g sugar, 2 g baking soda and 8 g salt and stir the wet into the dry with a sturdy spoon.

Switch to a soaking wet hand and squeeze everything into a homogenous mass, then knead in the bowl for three minutes.

Round and tuck the dough into a tight ball, cover with a lid and rest 15 minutes.

Knead three minutes more; the rest lets the dough hydrate and activate more gluten protein than kneading six minutes up front would. It should pass the tug test.

Round it again, cover and ferment 75 minutes.

For the filling, combine 115 g very soft butter with 150 g brown sugar, 20 g cinnamon and 1 g salt.

Smear the butter into the sugar with a spatula until it looks like damp sand, then whip it vigorously with a spoon for 60 seconds to cream it so it does not melt out of the roll.

After 75 minutes, preheat the oven to 375F.

Turn the doubled dough onto a lightly floured surface, degas it with the flat of your hand, flour it again and roll it out with slow deliberate movements.

Push the pin into the corners to make a rectangle about half an inch thick, roughly 12 inches wide and 16 to 17 long.

Spread the creamed cinnamon butter edge to edge with a spatula held flat, gliding rather than pressing.

Fold about an inch of the near edge over, tuck and crimp it, then roll forward two inches and pull back towards yourself, pinching slightly, to build internal tension. This is the same movement as shaping a baguette and it gives a huge oven spring.

Shore up the ends, roll the log over the seam pressing down to seal, and cut off both ends with a sharp knife.

Cut the log in half and each half into three, giving six rolls.

Spray a six count jumbo muffin pan and load the rolls in.

Bake at 375F for 40 to 55 minutes; his came out at 45 to 50 minutes at a good golden brown.

Set the rolls on a wire rack to cool for 10 minutes so they do not over-brown in the pan.

Variation, brownie pan: roll the log slightly longer, about 18 to 20 inches, cut into nine pieces and load three by three into a sprayed eight to nine inch brownie pan.

Variation, brownie pan: bake covered with foil for 35 minutes, remove the foil and bake 10 to 15 minutes more to the desired golden brown.

For the icing, whisk 25 g cream cheese into 75 g heavy cream to work out the lumps, add 150 g powdered sugar and a tiny pinch of salt and whisk until combined.

Loosen with about 10 g water or cream to a saucier texture.

Either drizzle a couple of lines over the top or smear the icing all over the top and sides and into the spirals.