Cinnamon sugar French crullers (deep-fried pâte à choux)

In a saucepan combine the milk and water, six tablespoons unsalted butter, the sugar and salt; bring to a simmer over medium-high so the butter melts, then turn down to medium.

Add the flour all at once and stir gently until it forms a dough like stiff mashed potatoes.

Keep cooking on medium to cook the flour and drive off moisture, until very stiff and a little shiny; watch the clock, as one minute and four minutes look similar.

Turn off the heat, transfer the dough to a large bowl and let it sit until warm to the touch, not hot, so the eggs do not scramble.

Beat the egg white with two of the eggs. Add about a third and beat until smooth, then the rest.

Beat the third egg and add half; test the consistency: it should drop from the spatula in a thick, opaque V and hold the marks of fork tines. If uncertain, err on less egg; she adds about another teaspoon to a teaspoon and a half. A dough that is too loose can be chilled to firm up.

Fill a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip, pressing the dough in to avoid air pockets; push it down with a bench scraper and twist to seal.

Brush the parchment squares with a little oil and pipe a ring on each, overlapping slightly at the end; with a smaller tip, pipe a double ring.

Leave uncovered at room temperature while the oil heats so the surface dries a little and keeps its definition.

Fill a pot a third to halfway with oil and heat to 350, then hold on medium.

Lower each cruller on its parchment into the oil with a spatula; once it bobs up, remove the parchment and flip ridge side down. Fry about three at a time, a couple of minutes per side, until deep golden brown.

Transfer to a cooling rack over a rimmed baking sheet; while still hot, coat fully in the cinnamon sugar (two thirds cup granulated sugar, a tablespoon of cinnamon, a pinch of salt).

Fry and coat the rest at 350 in two more batches of three. Best eaten fresh.