Clam chowder shell pasta

Cook sliced bacon in a pan over medium heat, stirring, until rendered and crisp; medium so the sugars do not burn onto the pan. Foamy bubbles mean it is almost done.

Drain the bacon in a strainer; reserve.

Back on medium, cook a chunk of butter, diced onions and a big pinch of salt, stirring, about five minutes until soft and translucent.

Drain the canned clams over a bowl to keep the juice; refrigerate the clams.

Stir in about a tablespoon of flour and cook about a minute to take off the raw starchy edge.

Whisk in the clam juice (a bottle plus the reserved juice, about two cups), scraping the bottom to deglaze; raise to medium high and bring to a simmer.

Add diced potatoes and celery, a sprig of tarragon and a few shakes of cayenne; simmer about five minutes.

Reduce to medium-low; add heavy cream, the clams and most of the bacon; simmer gently about 10 minutes, removing the tarragon.

Meanwhile boil the shells in salted water, usually 10 to 12 minutes, and drain very well.

Stir the pasta into the sauce until coated; off the heat let it sit about a minute.

Stir in chopped Italian parsley and Parmesan; taste for salt.

Serve in warm bowls topped with more Parmesan, the reserved bacon crumbled, and a pinch of parsley.