Classic chunky guacamole with tomato, serrano, cilantro and white onion

Choose avocados soft enough to give under firm pressure at the top, where they soften last.

Pull off the button end at the top.

Cut around each avocado from stem end to blossom end and back, then twist the halves apart.

Lodge the end of the knife blade in the pit and twist it out, or use a large spoon.

Scoop the flesh out with a large spoon against the skin; spoon out any dark spots or bruises if wanted.

Sprinkle salt over the avocado and squeeze in lime juice using a Mexican lime juicer turned upside down so it crushes the skin; start with no more than a tablespoon of lime for three avocados.

Mash the seasonings into the avocado with a few passes of a potato masher, keeping it chunky.

Cut tomato carefully into small dice without mushing it, about a third of a cup, and add to the base.

Dice one serrano, seeds and veins in for heat; rock the knife over it a few times to make it almost a mince.

On a dry board, bunch a handful of washed cilantro firmly, fold the tops under, and slice very thinly across stems and leaves as a chiffonade.

Chop about a quarter cup of white onion by slicing parallel to the board and then crosswise.

Rinse the chopped onion under cold water in a strainer and shake dry.

Fold tomato, chili, cilantro and onion into the seasoned avocado; taste for lime and salt.

Top with a little more cilantro to serve as a chip dip.