Cock-a-leekie soup

Cut the tough dark green tops off the leeks, wash well and put in the soup pot with the whole chicken, bay leaf, halved garlic cloves and prunes; add three quarts of cold water.

Bring to a simmer on high without skimming the foam, then turn down to between medium low and low and simmer 1 hour 15 minutes, occasionally pushing the chicken down with tongs.

Trim the root end of the leeks, split lengthwise (quarter a giant one) and cut across into even slices about half an inch.

Wash the sliced leeks in a large bowl of cold water so the sand sinks; lift them from the top into another bowl and refrigerate.

Lift the chicken into a bowl, draining the cavity, and let it cool; pull off the wings and leg bones and return them to the broth early.

Pull the meat from the skin and bones into spoon-sized pieces and refrigerate.

Return the bones and scraps to the broth and simmer another hour at a gentle simmer (optional, for more flavour).

Strain out all the solids with a spider, ideally into a colander set in a bowl, and return any liquid to the pot.

Add exactly half of the leeks, salt and black pepper; stir in a little white rice and simmer gently one hour, stirring occasionally, skimming some fat and adding water if it reduces too far.

Add the rest of the leeks, the reserved chicken and a little fresh thyme; simmer on medium low about 20 minutes so the second leeks keep some texture.

Taste and add salt; serve in a large warm bowl with extra black pepper and a pinch of sliced chives or green onions.