Coq au vin

Trim excess skin and hanging flaps off the chicken thighs.

Salt the thighs lightly on both sides and refrigerate at least six hours, ideally 24 to 36.

Lay the bacon in a cold pan in an even layer, add a quarter to a third of a cup of water, cover and cook over medium heat.

Uncover, let the water evaporate and let the remaining fat fry the bacon the rest of the way over low heat.

Pour the bacon into a sieve, spread the bits on paper towel to crisp as they cool, and reserve the fat, spooning it off the particulate.

Cut the onion, celery, carrot and parsnip to comparable sizes; slice the garlic thinly lengthwise.

Pile the parsley, thyme, rosemary, bay leaves, dried porcini and peppercorns into cheesecloth and tie it into a bag.

Mix a teaspoon of bouillon base into a cup of water.

Sprinkle one to two teaspoons of gelatin slowly over the cool stock in a wide bowl and let it hydrate for a minute with no lumps.

Put the thighs skin side down in a cold pan over medium low and render until the skin lifts off with a golden brown crust, tilting the rendered fat over any pale spots.

Pour off the chicken fat, leaving about two tablespoons, and add some reserved bacon fat.

Over medium to medium high heat, saute the vegetables until they release moisture, lift the fond and take on colour.

Add the slivered garlic and saute about 30 seconds.

Sprinkle over a tablespoon of flour and stir until pasty.

Stir in two tablespoons of tomato paste and let it stick to the bottom of the pan.

Add a splash of brandy and flame it; once the alcohol burns off, scrape the pan.

Add a cup of stock, then a cup and a half of red wine, add the herb bag, bring to a simmer and reduce until the vegetables just peek out.

Kill the heat, nestle the thighs in with the skin above the liquid.

Braise at 350F for 45 minutes to an hour until the chicken is tender and the vegetables soft.

Melt a tablespoon and a half of salted butter, add the mushrooms and toss to coat.

Cover and let the mushrooms steam out their moisture, then uncover and let it evaporate until they brown.

Add the minced thyme in the last few minutes.

Dry the pearl onions thoroughly, brown them in a tablespoon and a half of butter in a non-stick pan undisturbed.

Add a cup of beef broth and braise on the stove top about 30 minutes.

Uncover and cook off most of the liquid until the onions are soft, jammy and coated in a thick sauce.

Bring a tablespoon of water to a simmer, drop to low and whisk in butter a piece at a time to a thick creamy emulsion.

Pull the chicken out of the braise and reduce the sauce by about half again to a thick glossy consistency.

Crisp the chicken skin in a 400F convection oven for two to three minutes.

Cook the pasta in not very much water so the water stays starchy.

Press the herb packet out in a mesh sieve and discard it.

Stir most of the mushrooms and bacon into the sauce, holding some back for garnish.

Off the heat, toss the pasta in the beurre monte with a little pasta water; season with kosher salt and ground pepper.

Plate the pasta, spoon over the sauce, set the chicken on top and add the pearl onions, mushrooms and bacon; garnish the chicken with parsley and the pasta with chives.