Cowboy bacon (spicy candied bacon)

Cover a pan completely with heavy-duty foil and set a baking rack over it for the rendered fat.

Lay out one pound of thick-cut bacon strips on the rack; touching or slightly overlapping is fine.

Bake in the upper centre of a 375 degree oven for 10 minutes; flip and bake another 10 minutes, to cook it about halfway before glazing.

Whisk a packed quarter cup brown sugar with a little barbecue sauce, some rice vinegar, freshly ground black pepper and a little garlic powder; cayenne optional for extra heat.

Snip any curling spots with scissors to relieve the tension and flatten the bacon.

Brush the glaze generously over one side, bake seven minutes, flip, glaze the second side and bake another seven minutes, without laying it on too thick.

Flip without glazing and bake about 10 minutes to let the glaze start to caramelize.

Flip again, optionally swap the faster-cooking outside pieces with the inside ones, brush and bake another 10 minutes or so; keep glazing, flipping and baking until nearly done.

Brush once more and press on seeded rings of sliced jalapeno and Fresno chili, alternating colours; bake about 10 minutes.

Give the final glaze and bake until the chilies are tender and the bacon fully rendered and browned, about seven minutes more.

Move onto parchment paper so it does not stick to the rack, and cool completely to room temperature.

Cut in half on the parchment for manageable bites; serve, or stand vertically in a glass.