Creamy enchiladas suizas with homemade crema

Crema: warm heavy cream just enough to take the chill off - it should not feel hot. Stir in sour cream with active cultures (or buttermilk) until there are no lumps.

Pour into a jar and leave at room temperature about 12 hours to set.

Refrigerate another 12 hours to finish thickening.

Puree two drained 28-ounce cans of tomatoes in a food processor with serrano chilies dry roasted in a skillet about five minutes until soft.

Add the puree to browned onions and cook, stirring regularly, seven or eight minutes until as thick as tomato paste.

Stir in chicken broth, reduce to medium-low and simmer while preparing the rest.

Grate the Chihuahua cheese.

Lay tortillas on a baking sheet, brush lightly with oil on both sides and heat in a 350F oven two or three minutes until pliable; stack to keep warm.

Season the sauce with salt and stir in the crema; mix some of it into the shredded chicken.

Spoon the chicken onto tortillas, roll them, and set three in each individual baking dish over a little sauce. Sauce them and sprinkle with Chihuahua cheese.

Bake at about 350F for 15 or 20 minutes until browned and bubbling.

Finish with thinly sliced white onion and a sprig of cilantro.