Creamy pea pasta with lemon and garlic

Melt a little butter in the pan, add panko and stir over moderate heat until toasty brown; set aside for garnish.

Rinse the pot, fill with water for pasta, salt it and bring to a boil.

Zest the lemon into the cream, then squeeze in no more than half of the juice and stir; the acid curdles the cream into a thick, velvety texture with no heat.

Cover the frozen peas with water and thaw in the microwave a couple of minutes, until they float.

Drain the peas, douse in cold water with a few ice cubes to stop the cooking and keep them green, stir, and drain until dry.

Peel and finely chop the garlic, then grind it down with coarse salt and the side of the knife; add to the cream.

Bunch and finely chop the basil and mint; stir into the cream straight away so the lemon juice keeps them from browning.

Cook the pasta; grate a big pile of pecorino.

Smash the peas with the palms until each skin pops, leaving a few whole; add to the cream with the cheese, pepper and a pinch of salt; stir and taste for seasoning. Alternatively blend everything in a food processor.

Drain the pasta, saving some water in a glass; off the heat, stir in the pea mixture and let it warm in the residual heat.

Loosen with a splash or two of pasta water; serve straight away topped with the toasted breadcrumbs.