Creamy tom yum goong

Twist the heads off the shrimp and put them in the stock pot.

Devein each shrimp by poking a toothpick under the vein at the second joint and pulling it out; peel and add the shells to the pot.

Saute the heads and shells until the water evaporates and the head fat sticks and lightly caramelizes.

Deglaze with water, scrape up the bits, and simmer 15 to 20 minutes.

Prepare the herbs: bruise the bottom half of the lemongrass, slice the galangal, roughly tear the kaffir lime leaves; pound the chilies briefly in a mortar.

Fish out the shells, add the herbs and simmer about five minutes; rinse the mortar with broth to add all the chili.

Add evaporated milk, then the mushrooms, and cook about a minute.

Add fish sauce and quite a bit of Thai chili paste and stir to dissolve; without the chili paste add a little sugar to balance the salt and acid.

Add the shrimp for about 30 seconds, then turn off the heat.

Let it cool slightly, then stir in lime juice while stirring so it curdles less and the curds are smaller.

Finish with sawtooth coriander, taste and adjust; serve alone or with rice.