Creme caramel

Combine the sugar and water in a saucepan, stir once and bring to a boil on high heat.

Meanwhile prepare a high-sided bain-marie pan lined with parchment paper on the bottom, and set out the ramekins.

Once boiling, turn the heat down to medium-high and do not stir the caramel; stirring adds air and cools it, and it goes to the 'masse' stage. Watch it -- it can burn very quickly.

Put the milk in a separate saucepan with the vanilla and rum; reserve until the caramel is ready. Break the eggs into a bowl without the sugar yet.

When the caramel starts to turn golden, swirl or stir gently to even the color; lower the heat to control it. Cook to amber -- sweet and slightly bitter -- then turn off the heat, since it keeps cooking.

Pour the caramel into the ramekins. Add water to the hot pan so the leftover caramel melts for easier cleaning.

Bring the milk with vanilla and rum to a boil. Boil water in a kettle for the bain-marie and preheat the oven to 400F.

Turn off the milk once it rises. Add the sugar to the eggs and whisk vigorously, then whisk in the boiling milk.

Skim off all the foam with a skimmer, then fill the ramekins almost to the rim; a little spoon picks up remaining bubbles.

Place the pan in the oven and pour boiling water into the pan, not into the ramekins, to about the level of the custard.

Cook at 350F for about 40 to 45 minutes.

Test with a toothpick in the center: it should come out dry, and the custards should not shake when moved.

Cool at room temperature for about 20 minutes, then refrigerate about four hours before unmolding.

Unmold: press the edge with a thumb to break the seal, invert onto a hand and shake out. Scrape the caramel over with a spoon.

Decorate with fresh fruit -- the 'fusilis' opened with their leaves twisted, and raspberries -- and serve.

Variation: lay a thick layer of paper such as newspaper soaked in the bain-marie water under the ramekins to distribute heat more evenly and avoid bubbles.