Crispy cider batter chicken fingers

Flip the breasts over, find the crease where the tenderloin was removed and cut there, then cut from the thin end to the thick end at an angle into finger-sized pieces of very similar thickness.

Season the chicken in a bowl with kosher salt, freshly ground black pepper and cayenne and mix until evenly coated.

Sprinkle over a few tablespoons of flour, shake the bowl, then finish coating every bit of surface with hands or tongs.

Transfer to a rack so the surface can dry.

Refrigerate the floured chicken at least 10 minutes so the flour adheres and the chicken stays cold.

Whisk about a cup and a quarter of sparkling apple cider into a cup of self-rising flour, starting with about a cup and adding a splash if it seems thick, to a very thin pancake batter that still coats the back of a spoon.

Refrigerate the batter at least five to 10 minutes to let the flour hydrate; it will thicken a little.

Coat the cold chicken in the cold batter, letting the excess drip back into the bowl.

Fry in 375F oil about three to four minutes.

The thin batter throws off frying flakes; they stick together and can be lifted out with a strainer.

Expect the first batch or two in brand new oil to come out light.

Serve with a hot and sweet mustard dip of Dijon, rice vinegar and hot sauce.

Variation: halfway through the frying, lift the pieces out of the oil for 20 to 30 seconds to cool in the air, then return them, for a crispier coating. Or fry them 75 percent, cool and refrigerate, and crisp them up in hot oil when you serve.

Variation for presentation: set the fingers over an arugula, apple and celery salad dressed with a simple apple cider vinaigrette and spoon the dip over as a sauce.