Crispy-shell ground beef tacos with whole-chili taco meat

Cut the tops off the dried chilies about an inch below the stem with scissors, slit open, remove seeds, stem core and ribs.

Toast the chilies gently in a pan over medium heat until fragrant.

Add about 1.5 tablespoons cumin and toast gently until it crackles and smells aromatic, without blackening.

Add a cup of low-sodium chicken stock and simmer until the chilies soften.

Transfer the chilies, liquid and cumin to a container, add just enough water to cover, and add tortilla chips to thicken.

Saute the diced onion in a little oil.

Puree the chili mixture with a hand blender.

Add ground beef and cook over high heat until no longer pink and some moisture has evaporated, without browning it fully; drain off some fat if desired.

Add a little oregano; when the sound turns from simmering to sizzling, add the chili puree.

Season with a salt and MSG blend and a splash of soy sauce; taste for salt.

Build the tacos: cheese on the bottom of the shell, warm meat on top to melt it and protect the hinge, then cabbage, guacamole, sour cream, olives, pico, tomatoes and salsa.