Croissants

Encase a block of butter in the dough to create five layers - three of dough, two of butter. Roll out and fold several times to alternate the layers.

Develop the gluten well so the dough supports the steam expansion, roll the butter evenly in continuous layers, and hold the butter and dough at about the same temperature.

In the bowl of the mixer with a dough hook, combine the sugar, salt and 75% of the water.

Sprinkle the sifted flour over the mixture and let it hydrate 30 minutes.

Dissolve the yeast in the remaining water and add it to the flour mixture. Never add yeast directly to the salt solution - salt inhibits yeast activity.

Mix until thoroughly incorporated, then add the butter and let the consistency adjust as it mixes. Flour absorption varies with the temperature of the liquid.

Mix to develop the gluten, then test with a window test - stretch without tearing until light shows through.

Put the dough on a paper-lined sheet pan in a rectangular shape and refrigerate 30 minutes to relax the gluten.

Bring the butter to the plastic stage - firm enough not to ooze, pliable enough to roll without breaking. Knead butter, or butter and baker's margarine, and spread it half an inch thick on parchment paper in a rectangle.

Sprinkle a little flour on the butter to stop it sticking and control its moisture. Roll slightly with a rolling pin so it becomes one rectangular piece.

Chill the butter to the same consistency as the dough; around 65 degrees is adequate for both.

Roll the dough on a heavily floured table into a rectangle one third larger than the butter, working from the centre to the outside edges - about the size of a sheet pan. Brush off the excess flour so flour does not separate the layers.

With butter over two thirds of the dough, fold the uncovered third over half the butter, then fold again - a three-fold or letter fold. Brush off the excess flour. The dough now has five layers.

Seal the ends and sides, refrigerate and rest 30 minutes between each rolling and folding. Do not let the dough become warm, or so cold the butter cracks.

With the seam facing you, roll out into a rectangle twice the size of a sheet pan, rolling from the centre outward. Brush off extra flour, give a three-fold, refrigerate 30 minutes.

Mark one end with a finger indentation to record how many folds are done. Repeat three times total per dough.

After the folding is complete, refrigerate 12 to 24 hours before makeup. The dough can be frozen up to three weeks; beyond that the yeast loses potency. Thaw in the refrigerator 24 hours before use.

Roll out the dough, keeping plenty of flour underneath, to a little more than a quarter of an inch thick, and trim to an even rectangle eight to 12 inches wide.

Mark four-inch widths with the cutter wheel, cut rectangles, then cut each rectangle corner to corner into triangles. Rework the trimmings.

Cut a half inch notch in the centre of the wide base of each triangle to gain width when shaping.

Place any desired filling in the centre, roll up towards the pointed end, and set on a sheet pan with the tail underneath - a tail on top will turn up and burn.

Brush each croissant with egg wash; some chefs apply two layers for a better shine.

Proof at 85 degrees until doubled in size; this temperature keeps the butter from melting and leaking out.

Bake at 375 degrees until golden brown, then cool to room temperature.