Croque madame with the egg inside

Warm the milk in the microwave; cold milk into a hot roux makes it lumpy.

Melt 3 tablespoons of butter over medium-low, add the flour and cook a couple of minutes without colour until bubbling with a honeycomb look.

Whisk in the warm milk constantly to avoid lumps; bring almost to a simmer to activate the starch's full thickening.

Off the heat season with salt, a dash of Tabasco, a pinch of ground nutmeg and white pepper; taste and adjust. Transfer to a bowl to cool, stirring now and then.

Spread a thin layer of Dijon mustard over all eight bread slices.

Spread a little bechamel over the mustard, then a layer of Swiss cheese on every slice, then ham.

Preheat the griddle over medium to medium-high; melt a tablespoon of butter and fry the four eggs, seasoned with salt and pepper, breaking the yolks and spreading them; cook over medium, flip briefly and set onto the sandwiches.

Close the sandwiches and spread a thin layer of the remaining butter on the outside of one side.

Griddle buttered side down over medium, weighted with the press, until golden brown and the cheese melts; preheat the broiler.

Butter the top slices, flip and brown the second side.

Top with a generous layer of bechamel, not to the edges, and the grated Gruyere; kill the heat.

Broil until bubbly and browned, about 3 minutes, watching closely.

Let cool slightly and serve with a knife and fork.