Croque monsieur

Slice the loaf thick and lightly toast the slices.

Shred the Gruyere.

Melt the butter, whisk in the flour and cook until the raw flour smell goes.

Add the tepid milk in small splashes, letting a paste form before each addition, until the whole cup is in.

Cook five to seven minutes until thick, then season with nutmeg, white pepper and kosher salt and cook one more minute to a consistency that coats the back of a spoon.

Cover and cool the bechamel 10 to 15 minutes to a thick mayonnaise-like consistency.

Spread a couple of tablespoons of bechamel on the bottom slice, pile on grated Gruyere, then six slices of ham, then more Gruyere.

Smear bechamel on the top slice, close the sandwich, then top it with another layer of bechamel and another layer of Gruyere.

Bake at 375F until thoroughly browned, bubbly and melty.

Variation: build the same sandwich on brioche and spread Dijon mustard on the top slice; start it in the oven and finish under the broiler.

Variation: top with a fried sunny side up egg for a croque madame.

Variation, Monte Cristo: beat two eggs with half a cup of milk for a custard, preheat the ham in the microwave and assemble the sandwich.

Press the assembled sandwich flat with a plate so it does not fall apart, then dip in the custard 15 to 20 seconds per side until saturated.

Fry in foamed butter in a non-stick pan about five minutes per side until golden brown and crisp.

Plate, top with powdered sugar and serve with raspberry preserves.