Crusty rolls

Combine the all-purpose flour with a pinch of sugar and the instant yeast; the sugar feeds the yeast for a good rise.

Add the warm water and the salt, keeping the salt off the yeast.

Knead with the dough hook (or by hand) a couple of minutes until it comes together, slightly tacky but not wet.

Rub the top with a tiny bit of oil so it does not form a skin, cover with plastic wrap and rise until doubled, one to two hours, in the oven with only the light on.

Turn onto a lightly floured surface, weigh the dough (930 g) and divide into six pieces of 155 g, or eight of about 116 g for smaller rolls, so they bake evenly.

Roll each into a ball on a surface lightly sprinkled with water for grip, place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, cover with a kitchen towel and rest half an hour.

With lightly damp hands flatten each ball, roll up like a cigar, pinch the seams, then roll into a cylinder with more pressure on the ends. Use a dough scraper if it sticks. Place on a baguette pan or the baking sheet.

Cover and rest about 45 minutes until about doubled. Preheat the oven to 450.

Dust the rolls with a little flour and score them, straight over the top or slightly to the side.

Bake in batches on the middle rack at 450, throwing four ice cubes onto the oven floor for steam, which helps the rise and slows browning so the interior is not gummy. Do not open the oven for 20 minutes; bake 20 to 25 minutes until deep golden and crusty.

Freeze extras; reheat from frozen in a 350 oven for 15 minutes.