Dahi batata puri

For the dahi, put plain yogurt in a bowl and add a little salt, black pepper, black salt, toasted cumin seeds and a little chili powder.

Whisk it all together. Taste for balance and add salt and a little sugar until it is balanced. Set it aside.

For the stuffing, put the boiled potatoes in a bowl; they go slightly mushy as they are mixed.

Add the rehydrated and blanched green lentils, raw mango, very finely diced onion and diced tomato, skin on.

Season with pepper, salt and a little lemon juice, and add fresh coriander leaves.

Mix with a spoon, mashing the potato so it all comes together. It is good to prepare this in advance so the flavours come together.

Taste before serving and correct with a little cumin, chili and salt.

Crack the top of each puri with a fingertip or thumb to make a slight indent or hole - they are delicate once fried crisp.

Stuff the lentil and potato mixture generously into each puri. Add the filling just before service - too soggy and the puris crumble.

Top with tamarind sauce inside or on top of the potato, then green chutney.

Finish with the sweetened yogurt at dropping consistency, dropped on top, then freshly sliced cilantro leaves and very fine sev.

Plate on black slate, with a little chili powder for colour contrast and flavour, and chaat masala crisscrossed on the plate for the guest to take or leave. Serve as an appetizer or a snack.