Dan dan noodles

Season the ground pork with a little dark soy, a splash of Shaoxing wine, a little sugar and salt; add a little cornstarch.

Toast red and green Sichuan peppercorns in a dry skillet with a touch of peanut oil, turning the heat down when they get too hot.

Grind the peppercorns to a powder in a mortar and pestle with a circular motion; grind the dry roasted peanuts not too finely.

Trim and peel the ginger with a knife, slice against the grain, and smash in the mortar with two garlic cloves.

Add the garlic-ginger and scallion to the pork.

In the serving bowl combine a teaspoon of sugar, a couple teaspoons of vinegar, about a teaspoon of soy sauce, chili oil and sesame paste; add some noodle cooking liquid in place of stock.

Rub the wok with a thin coat of oil using a paper towel and heat until smoking, then add fresh oil to coat.

Add the pork mixture and let it fry as a cake before breaking it up.

Boil the fresh wheat noodles.

Break up the pork roughly and stir in the chopped jiakai.

Add a splash of noodle water to the bowl, taste and add more vinegar. Optionally wilt greens in the noodle water.

Add the noodles to the sauce and top with the pork mixture, extra ground Sichuan peppercorn, peanuts, chopped cilantro and chili oil; serve a little soupy and toss before eating.