Deep-fried potato salad with mortar and pestle aioli

Deep-fry the potatoes for about eight minutes until deeply golden brown outside and tender inside.

Crush two large garlic cloves into a smooth paste in a mortar and pestle, then add two egg yolks and mix them with the garlic until well combined.

Mixing rapidly, drizzle in neutral oil slowly until an emulsion forms.

Once the aioli has outgrown the mortar, move it to a larger bowl and continue whisking constantly while very slowly adding olive oil until a thick emulsion forms, about half a cup of combined oils per egg yolk.

Taste the aioli so it is not too harsh and season to taste with kosher salt.

Drain the fried potatoes on paper towels, then toss in a bowl with kosher salt and smoked paprika.

Pour onto a serving plate, top with the aioli and a smattering of scallions.

Variation: pickle the potatoes, then make french fries with the fry, freeze, then re-fry method and toss with kosher salt while still warm. The result is sour and funky and barely needs ketchup.