Dehong-style tomato nam mi (roasted tomato-chili dip)

Poke a couple of holes in the chilies; cut the roots off the head of garlic; wrap the tomato paste in foil.

Roast the tomatoes, chilies, garlic and foil-wrapped tomato paste on a grill, or in a 185C oven, taking each out as it is done: the tomato paste fragrant after about five or ten minutes on the grill, the tomatoes last, when nice and soft.

Peel the garlic, snip the stems off the chilies and snip them into one centimeter bits; optionally peel the tomatoes and snip out the stems.

In a mortar, pound the salt and coriander seeds to a powder, then the tua nao if using.

Add the roasted garlic and toasted chili powder and pound until pasty; add the roasted chilies and pound until broken down.

Add the tomatoes and tomato paste and break them down to taste; add back any tomato liquid.

Season with the remaining salt, chicken bouillon powder, MSG and sugar; transfer to a bowl and garnish with chopped culantro or cilantro.

To serve: boil skewered cabbage wedges about 6 minutes, adding the okra for the last minute; shock in cold water and drain well. Plate with fresh cucumber and carrot.