Deli-style macaroni salad

Make the dressing first: whisk mayonnaise, Dijon mustard, white vinegar, a shake of cayenne, black pepper, salt and one or two tablespoons of sugar.

Mix in finely diced celery, grated carrot, scallions, red bell pepper, poblano and jalapeno with a spatula; refrigerate while the pasta cooks so the vegetables quick-pickle and crisp.

Cook the elbow macaroni fully, not undercooked, in generously salted boiling water.

Drain in a colander about five minutes, shaking now and then; do not rinse.

Transfer to a large bowl and toss occasionally with the spatula until cooled to about room temperature and tacky; do not dress hot.

Mix in the dressing, cover and refrigerate at least four hours, overnight best.

Mix, freshen with a small spoon of mayonnaise and a tablespoon or two of cold water, taste for seasoning, and garnish with green onions.