Double cheeseburger with crinkle cut fries, from The Menu

Slice the onions very thinly.

Fry frozen crinkle cut fries in 375F peanut oil three to five minutes until deeply golden brown and crisp, then toss with kosher salt while warm.

Split a sesame seeded bun and toast it in a little oil in a cast iron skillet, then remove it.

Put two four ounce balls of 80-20 beef in the pan and smear them down, pressing so they do not stick to the spatula.

Season one side generously with kosher salt and black pepper, press the sliced onions into the meat, then flip.

Top each patty with two slices of yellow American cheese and let it melt as the patties finish.

Stack one patty on the other and move them to the toasted bun.

For the buns, whisk the bread flour, potato flour, sugar, instant yeast and kosher salt in a stand mixer bowl, then add the water, whole milk and two room temperature eggs.

Knead one to three minutes to a shaggy ball.

Add 50 g room temperature unsalted butter one tiny cube at a time, letting each disappear before the next, about three to five minutes, which develops the gluten.

Keep working the wet, slack dough until it passes the windowpane test; after about eight minutes of kneading, dust with more potato flour if it is still too sticky, until it is workable and bouncy and supple.

Bulk ferment in a generously oiled covered bowl at room temperature about an hour and a half, or less in a dough proofer, until doubled.

Divide the dough into six pieces, roll into tight taut balls, arrange spaced out on a parchment lined baking sheet and pat them down.

Spritz with nonstick spray, cover with plastic wrap and prove about an hour until nearly doubled.

Test the proof by poking the dough: if it springs back too quickly, prove another 15 to 20 minutes until the poke leaves an indent.

Brush with whole egg beaten with a pinch of kosher salt and coat with sesame seeds.

Bake at 375F for 18 to 22 minutes, then cool completely on the tray.

Bring 12 ounces of whole milk to a simmer in a large wide saucepan and whisk in an ounce and a half of sodium citrate.

At a bare simmer add all 32 ounces of shredded cheese at once, drop the heat as low as it goes and blend with an immersion blender until creamy and smooth.

Pour into a plastic wrap lined loaf pan, tap it down to knock out bubbles, cover and refrigerate at least four hours until set.

Hand cut six russet potatoes into crinkle cut fries, dropping them straight into cold water so they do not oxidise, and rinse three more times to remove excess starch.

Cover the fries again with cold water, add a tablespoon each of kosher salt and white vinegar, and cook 20 to 30 minutes until almost falling apart.

Lift them out carefully onto a wire rack in a rimmed baking sheet and cool, letting the moisture steam off for a lighter, fluffier interior, then freeze at least four hours.

Fry from frozen in 275F peanut oil, almost like a potato confit, until they just start to colour, drain on paper towel, re-rack and freeze at least four hours again.

Strain the oil, then fry at 375F for three to five minutes until deeply golden brown and crisp; drain and toss with kosher salt while hot.

Trim the sinew and connective tissue from the short rib, brisket and chuck roast, cut the meat and fat into one inch cubes, freeze about 20 minutes and pass through the medium plate of a chilled meat grinder.

Roll the blend into six ounce balls, wide enough to fill the buns and tall enough to keep a little pink at medium.

Oil the flat top, toast the buns, preheat it to smoking and smash the patties, then proceed as before.

Variation for thinner slices: spread half a batch of the cheese base as thinly as possible on a non-stick mat on a sheet pan heated on a pizza steel in a 275F oven, chill a few minutes until solid, invert onto parchment, peel the mat away and break into slices.