Dry brined roast chicken

Dry brine the day before: coat the chicken lightly with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper.

Rest uncovered in the fridge overnight to flavour the meat and dry the skin.

Run fingers between the skin and the meat to separate them, seasoning the meat directly; separated skin crisps better.

Rub the bird generously with duck fat, or coat it lightly with olive oil.

Tuck the wing tips under the body to keep them from burning.

Tie the legs together with butcher's twine or a twisted length of gauze to expose the thighs and drumsticks to more heat.

Give the bird one last coat of salt and freshly ground pepper.

Put a whole head of garlic cut in half and a sliced lemon in the cavity - things that perfume the bird but are not eaten, so they need not reach 165F.

Put the bird upside down in the largest oven safe saute pan and surround it with a roughly chopped large onion to stop the juices burning or evaporating.

Roast at 400F for about one hour, taking it out and flipping it breast side up about halfway through so the breast finishes and the skin browns.

Take the bird out of the pan and rest at least 15 minutes before carving; do not cover with foil or the crisp skin is ruined.

Strain the contents of the pan, leaving the browned bits in the bottom for the gravy.

Optionally carve before serving: remove the breasts, slice them and serve alongside the drums and thighs.