Dry tom yum with seafood

Slice the bottom half of the lemongrass very, very thin and the galangal into very thin rounds so both are edible; leave the kaffir lime leaves in large pieces.

Seed the chilies and remove the pith for chili flavour without the heat.

Sear the shrimp completely in oil.

Sear the scallops to about medium, flipping when the white has crept a third of the way up the side; leave a band in the middle not done.

Sear the squid last, since it releases liquid, 30 seconds to one minute, until it turns from translucent to white and is firm when pressed.

Keep the pan unless the bits are burnt; off heat, add the herbs, shallots and chilies with a little more oil, then return to medium heat for about 30 seconds so the lemongrass and galangal infuse the oil.

Deglaze with water or chicken stock; add the palm sugar (or chili paste) and fish sauce and stir to dissolve the sugar.

Add the mushrooms, toss, raise the heat; return the seafood, adding its juices unless there is a lot of liquid. Turn off the heat.

Stir in the tomatoes to soften in the residual heat, then the lime juice, cooked as little as possible.

Finish with cilantro; serve on a plate with some depth to keep the sauce, with rice.