Duchess potatoes

Peel the russet potatoes; halve, set flat side down and halve again into quarters.

Cover by a couple inches with cold water, salt very generously, bring to a boil on high, then simmer on medium-low until very tender but not falling apart; test with a thin knife.

Drain very well and let sit in the strainer at least five minutes so they are as dry as possible.

Mash in a bowl until almost smooth; add butter, salt, a couple shakes of cayenne and a small touch of nutmeg and mash until the butter disappears.

Switch to a whisk; add a splash of heavy cream and three egg yolks and whisk until light and fluffy; finish with a spatula, smashing any larger lumps that could clog the piping tip.

Cover and cool to room temperature (or refrigerate); it firms as it cools, making it easier to pipe.

Pipe portions of equal size onto a parchment-lined baking sheet; refrigerate until baking.

Without a piping bag: shape with an ice cream scoop, set a smaller scoop on top, drag a fork from bottom to top all around to mimic a star tip, and press the fork twice on top.

Drizzle or lightly brush the chilled potatoes with butter and sprinkle a little cayenne on each.

Bake in the center of a 450F oven about 20 minutes until the edges are browned and crisp and the insides heated through.