Duchess potatoes

Cut the potatoes, start them in cold water with a little rock salt, and bring to the boil.

Boil until really cooked, 20 to 25 minutes.

Drain and let them dry off - getting rid of the excess water matters. They should be dry and still hot.

Mash all the potatoes gently with a masher or press.

Over low to medium heat, stir the mash a little to dry out the last of the water. Do not cook it further.

Off the heat, work in the butter a little at a time until it is all melted and incorporated, as for a mash. The mix pulls together clean and compact like a choux paste.

Off the heat, add three egg yolks and mix gently to a good consistency and a golden colour.

Season with salt flakes and nutmeg, put the heat back on very low for a minute or two to distribute the seasoning, tasting as you go, then take it off.

Load the mix into a piping bag and pipe it onto a baking tray, either as small crowns or as larger nests with a space in the middle that can be filled afterwards with a sauce or mushrooms.

Bake at 200 degrees Celsius or 420 Fahrenheit for about 15 to 20 minutes, until nicely golden brown on top.