Dulce de leche cinnamon rolls

Combine 420 g all-purpose flour, 100 g granulated sugar, 1 tsp salt and instant yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer.

Add 1/2 tsp cinnamon and 1/8 tsp freshly grated nutmeg and whisk the dry ingredients together.

Melt 85 g unsalted butter in a medium microwave safe bowl in 15 second increments, stirring between.

Add 120 ml milk, microwaved 15 seconds, and 1/2 cup sour cream. Whisk in and microwave 15 seconds more so the mixture is warm and liquid rather than granules of fat suspended in water.

Add the warm milk mixture and one egg to the flour mixture and give it a start by hand.

Add 1 tbsp vanilla, then mix with the hook on low, increasing to medium low.

Mix on medium low 8 to 10 minutes, longer by hand, until the dough is smooth and stretchy and tacky but does not stick to a clean finger.

Cover and rise in a warm place about an hour, or until doubled; longer on a cold day. An oiled bowl is not needed with this much butter in the dough.

For the wet filling, mix 88 g dulce de leche with 57 g room temperature butter until there are no streaks of butter.

For the cinnamon sugar, mix 2 tbsp brown sugar, or up to two tablespoons more for gooier rolls, with 1 tbsp ground cinnamon in a small bowl with a fork. Brown sugar rather than granulated, for the caramel notes.

Lightly flour the surface, then pat and shape the dough before rolling it to a 12 by 18 inch rectangle, gently, so as not to crush it.

Spread the dulce de leche butter over the dough, leaving about half an inch free on one short side, then sprinkle the cinnamon sugar evenly over the top.

Roll the dough up from the started edge, then position and shape the log, pushing any inner scroll back in. This one is 16 inches.

Butter a 9 by 9 inch baking dish. Cut the log into nine or 12 rolls with unwaxed dental floss and place them three by three, with room to puff.

Cover loosely and rise in a warm place about 30 minutes, or until doubled.

Preheat the oven to 350F.

Make ahead: build them the night before, cover before the second rise and refrigerate. Next morning bring to room temperature to finish the second rise, then bake and ice.

For the icing, mix 4 oz softened cream cheese, about 2 tbsp dulce de leche, a pinch of salt and 2 tbsp softened butter.

Add 1 cup powdered sugar, then 1 tsp vanilla, then about 1 tbsp milk, adding the liquids last since they set the consistency. Cover so it does not dry out.

Storage: up to a week in the refrigerator, warmed over low heat in the microwave, or up to three months in the freezer, best un-iced and iced after defrosting.

Spread one third of the icing over the hot rolls, let them cool five minutes, then add the rest.